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Turkish Saz / Baglama

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Comments

  • Jangle_JamieJangle_Jamie Scottish HighlandsNew De Rijk, some Gitanes and quite a few others
    Posts: 274

    A few more photos. The second one shows where the bridge will be. As you can see, the body is actually nicely made and very light. The top however is just ludicrous and is half the weight of the entire instrument. The Fishman Presys could work ok as it is, but I will solder on a good Bigtone that I happen to have spare and assume the Fishman preamp will handle it ok. Do you think that's correct?


    Buco
  • JasonSJasonS New
    Posts: 104

    I think that will work. I've never seen a Saz top built like that. I can't imagine why they'd layer plywood under the top.

    Will the neck angle work out okay with the shorter scale length and floating bridge? The bowl itself looks nice. I'm a little surprised it isn't paper lined but it looks like the ribs are pretty tight.

    Jangle_Jamie
  • Posts: 5,028

    Boy, you're not wasting any time. That's so weird that they made the top so overbuilt but overall it's a nice craftsmanship.

    I'd say bigtone will work fine with the existing preamp.

    Jangle_Jamie
    Every note wants to go somewhere-Kurt Rosenwinkel
  • Jangle_JamieJangle_Jamie Scottish HighlandsNew De Rijk, some Gitanes and quite a few others
    edited October 21 Posts: 274

    I will make the neck angle work. There'll be no arch to the top. If need be, I'll add a shim under the tailpiece like Gitane have done on some of theirs.

    I suppose it'll be a Gypsy Jazz-Sazz

    Bucobillyshakes
  • murrayatuptowngallermurrayatuptowngaller Holland, MINew wooden guitars
    Posts: 84

    The butcher-block construction might have evolved from bad luck shipping instruments unsuccessfully ;O)

    Jangle_Jamiebillyshakes
  • Jangle_JamieJangle_Jamie Scottish HighlandsNew De Rijk, some Gitanes and quite a few others
    Posts: 274

    Firstly, I am most definitely not a luthier, so go easy on my methods!! Any advice would be much appreciated.

    I haven't had much time lately, but I have finally made a new top, two braces (out of some old picture frame moulding) and stuck it down. I also bought myself some mini power tools - a mini plane which has been great for trimming the sides flush with the body, and a mini router which is perfect for routing a groove for the binding. They're reasonably priced at £35 and £45. I've also made a perspex base for the router (doesn't come with one) so I can route a channel for the rosette. Question for the luthiers: how do you get the laminated purfling to bend in such a tight circle?

    Just tapping the top gives quite a nice resonant echo, so it will be interesting to find out what it's like.


    BucoWillie
  • Posts: 5,028

    Picture frame for braces, brilliant. You got skills, luthier or not.

    Every note wants to go somewhere-Kurt Rosenwinkel
  • Jangle_JamieJangle_Jamie Scottish HighlandsNew De Rijk, some Gitanes and quite a few others
    Posts: 274

    Ok, it has strings on and I'm playing it. It's not bad, and the Bigtone works very well. I do have a problem however. When strings are fretted, if I push a bit harder I can bend the note a bit. This means that unless using even pressure, it's sounding rather out of tune at times. What can I do to solve this? I was thinking I could file the frets right down so they're very low and flat. I have a tiny 'pocket' mandolin which is like that - very low frets - and it works well. That's the only thing I can think of. Pics to follow!!

  • JasonSJasonS New
    Posts: 104

    Are you using Saz strings or guitar strings? What's the scale length? You may need to increase the string gauges to get enough tension so they don't bend so easily when fretted.

    Jangle_Jamie
  • Jangle_JamieJangle_Jamie Scottish HighlandsNew De Rijk, some Gitanes and quite a few others
    Posts: 274

    Scale length is 480mm nut to bridge. I'm using Argentine 10s. I wonder if I should tune it up a fifth like I do with my little Yamaha Guitalele? Would the strings take it?

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