Comments

• Jazzaferri Victoria B.C.Moderator Dunn Ultrafox, DuPont MDC20 Gretsch Chet Atkins CG

  October 2012 Posts: 3,707

  The basic rule is to try and line up the string in as straight a line as possible, and with slot heads not rub against the wood. String should come over the top of the cylinder and wind on, not underneath ...the most direct line rule again.
  
  Only put enough wraps on to ensure no slippage. That will mean 3 or so for low and maybe 5-6 for high. Its been a long time since i have used that. I put the string through the hole, come back against the winding and under the string to lock it, that way i can get a solid lock even on the high E with 2 coils on. Makes for a quicker string change.

  The Magic really starts to happen when you can play it with your eyes closed
• dmin7th ✭✭

  October 2012 Posts: 25

  It might help to look at some of Michael's listings -- he usually has large pics that show the headstock really well. (Like this Holo example.)
• Jazzaferri Victoria B.C.Moderator Dunn Ultrafox, DuPont MDC20 Gretsch Chet Atkins CG

  October 2012 Posts: 3,707

  Looking at the Holo example methinks thats a locked stringing technique

  The Magic really starts to happen when you can play it with your eyes closed
• dmin7th ✭✭

  October 2012 Posts: 25

  Jazzaferri wrote:

  Looking at the Holo example methinks thats a locked stringing technique

  Yeah, between that and your comments, I'm thinking I need to pay more attention to what I'm doing on my next re-string. I've got too many wrappings going on, and I've never tried a locking technique like that.
  
  I'm not sure how the low E is even staying on there on this Dupont.
• ihscout California,Bay Area ✭ Ald la brune

  October 2012 Posts: 33

  Thanks for the replies,got it figured out.
• Jazzaferri Victoria B.C.Moderator Dunn Ultrafox, DuPont MDC20 Gretsch Chet Atkins CG

  October 2012 Posts: 3,707

  dmin7th wrote:

  Jazzaferri wrote:

  Looking at the Holo example methinks thats a locked stringing technique

  Yeah, between that and your comments, I'm thinking I need to pay more attention to what I'm doing on my next re-string. I've got too many wrappings going on, and I've never tried a locking technique like that.
  
  I'm not sure how the low E is even staying on there on this Dupont.

  
  Thats how mine looks, and if I am in a hurry and dontleave a bit of slack I end up with less than 1 turn. never had a locked one slip over 30 years of playing.

  The Magic really starts to happen when you can play it with your eyes closed
• Bob Holo Moderator

  October 2012 Posts: 1,252

  There are a couple of locked string techniques. The one I used is where your first wrap(s) go to the inside of the headstock and second wrap(s) goes to the outside of the headstock so that the two sides pinch the string in the center because the string pulls toward the inside due to the angle between the tuner hole and the string guide (nut), but is kept from sliding all the way toward the center because it goes through the hole and so is anchored there horizontally. Use more wraps as the string gets smaller as Jazzaferri said. The strength of this method is that it is easy to undo the string / loosen it / remove it, the weakness of this method is that it takes a little longer.
  
  The other lock method which is commonly used for changing strings during gigs where speed is important (and some gypsy guys seem to use it exclusively) is where you pull the string through the post till it's almost tight and start turning the post... the string should basically be just a little snug by the time the post comes back around to where the string exiting the tuner hole crosses the string coming from the string guide/nut. Then you cross the string back over itself a few times as you see on the Dupont and continue to turn the tuner key. The strength of this method is that it's really quick. After you've done the lock, you only need about half to one peg turn before you're good to go... the two center strings and the high E take a little more but not much. The weakness is that you really can't loosen the string effectively. It will never get any looser than where it was snug when you locked it... if you loosen it further it will simply tighten in the other direction. So it's more difficult to get the string really loose if you want to pull the strings aside to clean the fretboard or twist the string's loop counterclockwise a few turns to bring some life back to strings that are just a tad past their prime so you don't have to play a gig with dead strings or new bouncy strings. But if you're trying to get a string changed before your audience gets restless or your busking crowd departs without tipping - it's lighting fast. Just don't try to do it in front of an audience for the first time. Get the hang of it before trying to do it under pressure.

  You get one chance to enjoy this day, but if you're doing it right, that's enough.