Polish or some such thing

Jim Kaznosky

I was changing my strings last night and gave my guitar a rough polish with a rag. While gigging isn't quite ruing the guitar, it probably deserves better than a quick rag polish. Can anyone recommend something readily available for regular use on a GJ guitar to keep them nice and pretty?

Passacaglia

I know this isn't earth shattering, and it's a little weird. I make cheese, alpine French styles; didn't know I had a small bit of the really sticky/stinky rind of my reblochon on my thumb. Got a smudge on the neck. Neck sticky, and weirdly, tough to get off. My overactive imagination went to the known species and strains of bacterias and yeasts I use, and I thought, crap! Wood slowly rotten!

Always just wiped down with rag, as with you. Thought moments ago, hmmm...some sort of polish would be nice.....

'kay, I said it wasn't earth shattering.

Bob Holo

Polish isn't really necessary on most modern finishes, and if your finish is cracked or crazed or worn through to the wood in places, it can get into the wood.

*EDIT*

Ahh.... good points guys. Depends on whether you're looking to clean, buff or protect... I'm going to amend my post - not trying to steal thunder here, but I've been bitten by some of these things so please forgive if I'm a little verbose... ;-)

Cleaning: VM&P Naptha (AKA Ronsonol / lighter fluid) But note that naptha is a very narrow distillation of hydrocarbons. Why is this important? Well, because many lacquer solvents are hydrocarbon based. So, purity is important. VM&P (varnish maker's & painter's naptha) just means "pure naptha that was boiled off of petrol in this specific temperature range" and you can get it at most hardware/paint stores. About a month ago a builder friend had an expensive "oh sh*t" incident with a (formerly) naptha based cleaner he'd used for years that had evidently changed formulation or distillation procedure or something. Anyway - I have a can of Ronsonol in my mobile repair kit that's about 5 years old and it works fine, I'm just saying - be careful & read labels and test in small spots.

Buffing: Yes, definitely compound. I like Menzerna. As Jazzaferri said - get a good one. Generally you're paying for the quality and consistency of the grit - just as with good quality sandpaper. Never cheap-out on sandpaper or buffing compound - you'll be sorry if you do.

Protecting: (AKA Glaze/Polish/Wax) Novus #2 Plastic Polish, Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze, Behlen's OZ Polish. Follow the directions and work small spots and use sparing amounts as glaze/polish does leave a protective film and if you're sloppy or use too much, you'll see ridges & swirls when you're done.

Ian Rossiter

Good old' lighter fluid!! Works great,an no residue.

Jazzaferri

If I were to polish my guitar I would use the finest grade of pro auto paint buffing compound as they generally have the finest grit of polishing available in a liquid. I use it on nitro for cabinets and have not had any problems show up.

A little dab on a cloth, rub in and polish off if just a good clean. If major I would use my air polisher on slow speed and work through a couple of grades down to mirror finish or buffing compound on a big wheel. PITA to load the wheel but when done best job of all IMO

Meguiars mirror glaze leaves a fairly healthy coat on the surface. I think all glaze compounds leave something on the surface hence the name. Like a very thin wax coating.