New Rosewood Bridge = awesome

Shemi · November 2015

@Buco... That would be fantastic, thank you very much! :-)

Buco · November 2015

I sent you a PM.

Shemi · November 2015

Thanks for that @Buco, much appreciated! I've had a quick look through and think I've got the idea. There was something I was wondering though. Did the original Macafferri's have a radius fretboard or were they flat? I didn't really think about it before but the bridge on my guitar is flat, aside from the height differential for string heights from bass to treble strings, but there is a radius to the fretboard. I notice that the instructions seem to suggest a flat top to the bridge also. I'm just wondering if I should be putting a radius on top of the bridge to match my fretboard. Looking forward to having a good go at this! :-)

pickitjohn · November 2015

Here is a informative post copied from Josh Hegg
Jan 2005...

Old Post Shims

http://www.djangobooks.com/forum/discussion/55/shims/p1

Fitting a bridge blank

Before you order a new bridge: measure your action height at the bridge. If you like where it is then order a bridge that will keep it the same. If you want to change it then make your order accordingly.

1. Take the string off of the guitar

2. Take the old bridge off of the guitar

3. See if the new bridge will slide in between the "mustache" pieces

If it does then go to "notching for strings" if not then go to fitting

Fitting:
What you will need: A good file, A block of flat wood, Sand paper (not less then 300 grit)
The fit should be close on the new bridge so make sure to work slow so you don't take too much wood off of the new bridge. Use your file to take off small amounts of wood. Make sure not to just take from one end. You don't want to make the bridge off center. Keep checking the bridge to the guitar after a few stokes of the file. You don't want the bridge to be tight but you don't want big gaps. It should just slide in. When you get close you might want to use your sand paper and block to work the corners just a bit so they are not too sharp.

Notching for Strings
** READ THIS ** There are 2 sides to a bridge. The bass side and the treble side. The bass side is taller or higher then the other. Before you start going to town make sure you have the correct sides in mind

Note: the best way to do this is it buy bridge/nut files. But you don't have to have them for a bridge. You just have to work slow with what you have. Keep in mind this step can make your action different and or make the bridge not usable. So WORK SLOW
What you will need: Small file (a tri angle needle file works well) last choice is an exacto knife. A supper sharp pencil (a mechanical one works well or you can take sand paper and thin a normal one)

1. Using your old bridge put new string on the guitar. Don't tune the string. Keep them lose with just enough tension to keep them straight.

2. Take the old bridge off

3. Put the new bridge on

4. Make light makers with pencil on each side of each string. Don't move the string with when you do this. The strings should be just tight enough to keep them straight.

5. Take new bridge off

6. You will be able to see the marks you made. Now you have 2 marks for each string. Like this || in the center of those marks is where the string lives.

7. If you are lucky and have the good nut files then you have it made from here on out as long as you don't get too file happy and go too deep

*Needle File: Place the edge of the file in the center of one set of the marks. GO SLOW and start to make a notch. Do this for each string. Don't worry about making the notches deeper for the big strings at this point

*Exacto Knife: (this is harder) GO SLOW and make a small V for the string to rest in with the bottom of that V at the center of the marks. Do this for each string. Don't worry about making the notches deeper for the big strings at this point.

8. Put the new bridge on. Make sure you have the bass side on the base side. The higher part of the bridge goes under the low E string.

9. You want your notches to be half as seep as the string is round. In other words you only want to sink half of the string into the bridge with your notches. This is not easy on the small strings but just do your best to get them close. This is easier if you WORK SLOW

10. After you have the notches perfect and the bridge is in Tune it up and start ripping. If the action is too high DO NOT TAKE wood out from the part of the bridge that is resting on the top of the guitar.

Lowering your action:

1. Loosen your strings and take the bridge off

2. Take your larger file and start taking of wood from the TOP of the bridge. The Top is where the string sit....The Thin part. Only take a very small amount of at a time. Do I need to tell you to work slow again? Remember .5mm can make a huge difference when it comes to action.

3. Use your small file to re notch for the strings.

Keep doing this until you get the action the way you like it. If you want to measure your action do it at the 12th fret with a ruler from the top of the fret to the bottom of the low E string. It should be any where around 2.5mm to 4mm depending on what you like and how you play

>-

Jehu · December 2015

Hey Shemakimoo,

I still haven't gotten around to making a new Selmer bridge (it's on my to-do list), but a little while back I posted some info on making an archtop bridge:

http://www.djangobooks.com/forum/discussion/comment/77745#Comment_77745

The process will be similar.