I've thought about bending the top after joining the halves but was always worried about loosening the glue in the center seam with the heat and moisture. What type of glue do you use for joining the top? thx
whitneyguitarsNewGitane DG-340 Modele Stephane Wrembel Model
edited December 2019Posts: 22
Hey bones, you got it.
That sounds like a valid concern. For what it's worth, I used Titebond 3 - perhaps a bit overkill but it has a higher moisture rating than '1' and '2'.
I can only speak to the method of bending I employed but suspect that even the original Titebond would have been fine. The only heat I applied was with the boiling water through a syringe (with a needle) and I only targeted the scored line and didn't saturate the wood.
(EDIT) My soundboards have been joined since June and I see no signs of failure whatsoever. Cheers.
Yeah exactly I was thinking of using Titebond 3 if I bent the whole top for that reason, water resistant/exterior grade.
The other reason I used the hot pipe is that I can taper the bend so that it pretty much disappeared at the sides. The edge of the sides are straight (no pliage where the top meets the sides) so I figured why bend it there then pull it down flat again when gluing the top to the sides. Of course there was sine pliage at the edges of the top when I bent it but just less than in the center so less to pull flat.
Some scorching was an issue though. I need a better way to micro-control the temp. But it was minimal just surface darkening of the wood. You need to keep the wood moist so it doesn't scorch too deep.
That said I do want to try a method without using the hot pipe. Thanks for the info.
Comments
@Bones - I found some shots of the setup I had sent off via messenger. Hope these help...
Ok so you score, wet the score, and force down into the 7 degree form with the cross member? thx
I've thought about bending the top after joining the halves but was always worried about loosening the glue in the center seam with the heat and moisture. What type of glue do you use for joining the top? thx
Hey bones, you got it.
That sounds like a valid concern. For what it's worth, I used Titebond 3 - perhaps a bit overkill but it has a higher moisture rating than '1' and '2'.
I can only speak to the method of bending I employed but suspect that even the original Titebond would have been fine. The only heat I applied was with the boiling water through a syringe (with a needle) and I only targeted the scored line and didn't saturate the wood.
(EDIT) My soundboards have been joined since June and I see no signs of failure whatsoever. Cheers.
Yeah exactly I was thinking of using Titebond 3 if I bent the whole top for that reason, water resistant/exterior grade.
The other reason I used the hot pipe is that I can taper the bend so that it pretty much disappeared at the sides. The edge of the sides are straight (no pliage where the top meets the sides) so I figured why bend it there then pull it down flat again when gluing the top to the sides. Of course there was sine pliage at the edges of the top when I bent it but just less than in the center so less to pull flat.
Some scorching was an issue though. I need a better way to micro-control the temp. But it was minimal just surface darkening of the wood. You need to keep the wood moist so it doesn't scorch too deep.
That said I do want to try a method without using the hot pipe. Thanks for the info.
What's an SB?
Soundboard?
I'll take a stab, SB = sides and back
Yes, the word "laminated" would suggest that. But the topic was joining the top halves. In any case, we are going to learn something.
Sorry for the shorthand - SB = 'soundboard' (I amended my comment).
In the voice of Alex Trebek: @Matteo is right!