Get them filed back. This is totally normal - especially in Minnesota. Even if you keep an instrument humidified, it is possible (likely) that the fingerboard was not particularly well dried and seasoned before manufacture. Even if you are able to make the fingerboard take on enough moisture to return to previous dimensions, it will probably shrink back again. Oiling the board is just fine to help prevent moisture loss, make it look nice, and to keep dirt and sweat from sticking etc, but oil is not water and will not penetrate very deeply on ebony unless there are structural defects that would allow it to seep. The shrinkage is caused by loss of moisture (water) through the whole piece of wood, not just the surface. Moisture exchange for a fingerboard is much slower than moisture exchange in the back and sides of the guitar. In my experience, humidification is not likely to make the fingerboard completely return to dimensions. In my shop, this is a 30 minute repair unless there are other issues with the frets. Just about any competent repair person can handle it quickly and inexpensively.
When we get 'dry' guitars in the shop, we get some really damp sponges, put them in perforated plastic bags, put the guitar back in the case along with the bagged-sponges, and put the case in a large plastic bag big trash bag)...basically re-hydrating the guitar......takes a couple weeks - low & slow - be patient...then your guitar should be OK...
What @psychebilly said. I have a nice Martin and back in a day I was pretty clueless to a proper guitar care. So frets started popping to the side of the fretboard and I went to see great Chicago luthier and repairman Danche and he gave me a lesson and an earful and from that day on I did not neglect my guitars. Long story short after the guitar got to where the wood was happy the frets were good too.
@psychebilly Where do you place the bags? I usually use a variation of this method as well but just put one bag with 2 damp sponges in the headstock area. The sound hole gets a humidifier.
I have the D'Addario humidipaks in the guitar cases of my acoustic instruments, and run a room humidifier when it's furnace season. The room is around 45% RH. I did have frets sprout on an old Carvin I've had for years, but now that I am older and a bit wiser to humidification, I haven't had any issues. A cheap hydrometer, the room humidifier, and the humidipaks are a great way to keep our instruments healthy.
Can be just as damaging! Getting a hydrometer is helpful. I like those Humidipaks because they are two way (humidifier and dehumidifier). I checked the ones in my Eastman DM1 gigbag and they were brittle. Glad I checked!
We put two bags (sandwich-size) with a damp-but-not-dripping-wet sponge in the case with the guitar...headstock area and inside the guitar in a safe spot where it won't damage the wood/joints/etc. We keep the case in a flat position, with tension off the strings. We don't move the guitar/case unless absolutely necessary. Usually takes a week or two, we check every few days. You can tell by looking when it's ready. The frets won't be perfectly back, but most of the way; we may have to do a little fret work afterwards...
Keeping your guitar humidified is important, along with oiling the board every once in awhile... ;>)
Comments
Get them filed back. This is totally normal - especially in Minnesota. Even if you keep an instrument humidified, it is possible (likely) that the fingerboard was not particularly well dried and seasoned before manufacture. Even if you are able to make the fingerboard take on enough moisture to return to previous dimensions, it will probably shrink back again. Oiling the board is just fine to help prevent moisture loss, make it look nice, and to keep dirt and sweat from sticking etc, but oil is not water and will not penetrate very deeply on ebony unless there are structural defects that would allow it to seep. The shrinkage is caused by loss of moisture (water) through the whole piece of wood, not just the surface. Moisture exchange for a fingerboard is much slower than moisture exchange in the back and sides of the guitar. In my experience, humidification is not likely to make the fingerboard completely return to dimensions. In my shop, this is a 30 minute repair unless there are other issues with the frets. Just about any competent repair person can handle it quickly and inexpensively.
Hi Wyatt
When we get 'dry' guitars in the shop, we get some really damp sponges, put them in perforated plastic bags, put the guitar back in the case along with the bagged-sponges, and put the case in a large plastic bag big trash bag)...basically re-hydrating the guitar......takes a couple weeks - low & slow - be patient...then your guitar should be OK...
What @psychebilly said. I have a nice Martin and back in a day I was pretty clueless to a proper guitar care. So frets started popping to the side of the fretboard and I went to see great Chicago luthier and repairman Danche and he gave me a lesson and an earful and from that day on I did not neglect my guitars. Long story short after the guitar got to where the wood was happy the frets were good too.
@psychebilly Where do you place the bags? I usually use a variation of this method as well but just put one bag with 2 damp sponges in the headstock area. The sound hole gets a humidifier.
I have the D'Addario humidipaks in the guitar cases of my acoustic instruments, and run a room humidifier when it's furnace season. The room is around 45% RH. I did have frets sprout on an old Carvin I've had for years, but now that I am older and a bit wiser to humidification, I haven't had any issues. A cheap hydrometer, the room humidifier, and the humidipaks are a great way to keep our instruments healthy.
Just an FYI you don't want to over humidify your instruments either so don't over do it.
Can be just as damaging! Getting a hydrometer is helpful. I like those Humidipaks because they are two way (humidifier and dehumidifier). I checked the ones in my Eastman DM1 gigbag and they were brittle. Glad I checked!
I have a problem with feet sprout too! I get some powder from the chemist but it doesn’t do much good ?
We put two bags (sandwich-size) with a damp-but-not-dripping-wet sponge in the case with the guitar...headstock area and inside the guitar in a safe spot where it won't damage the wood/joints/etc. We keep the case in a flat position, with tension off the strings. We don't move the guitar/case unless absolutely necessary. Usually takes a week or two, we check every few days. You can tell by looking when it's ready. The frets won't be perfectly back, but most of the way; we may have to do a little fret work afterwards...
Keeping your guitar humidified is important, along with oiling the board every once in awhile... ;>)
Keeping your guitar humidified is important, along with oiling the board every once in awhile... ;>)
Thanks for the response....yeah, I have to do better at the latter part of that.