BYO - fret time

bluemoves

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I'm looking at Jescar EVO gold 55090.. (good choice??)

do I buy it flat? (since the fingerboard radius seems so slight..)

or do I buy it 'pre-radiused' - (and what if I can't find it at my required radius?)

Also - please pipe up if you think I am making a rookie error going with this wire!! :D - haven't ordered any yet.

Thank you _/\_

Bones

I've never used that I just get mine from Stew Mac. You need it to be radiused just slightly more than your fretboard so the ends are tight to the wood.

bluemoves

Does anyone know anything about the requirements of the width of the slots for frets?

I imagine that one should ensure that they have some or other relationship to the width of the 'spline' of the fret (or whatever you'd call it - the bit that goes in the slot) ie. a certain ratio.

As I understand it - installing 21 frets on a completely flat board gives the board something of a back-bow, which has to be corrected in the fret-levelling stage ?

Just looking to minimise the correction required - we don't have any proper fret dressing tools!

Also just want to know what the 'proper' ratio of sizes should be 'cos we don't want the slots to be too wide either, risking frets not being snug and secure.

As always, Thanks fellas _/\_

Bones

The parts of the fret are called crown, tang and barb. The slot should be just wider and deeper than the tang but not at wide as the tang plus barbs or the fret won't bite and could pop up. Standard slot width is right around .023" for the medium Stew Mac wire. Fret work is a HUGE topic though so you should go to stewmac.com and check out some of their videos.

Also when I install frets I add a tiny bead of Titebond glue to the slot before I press the fret in. It lubricates the fret and slot to facilitate pressing in and fills the gap between the slot and tang. But doesn't bond with metal (obviously) so shouldn't hamper fret removal later during a refret (full disclosure, I'm not a repair tech, just a hobbyist luthier).