I've alternated between argentines and find that the 10s bring out a sweeter sound from my guitar, with a lot more subtleties, particularly when playing melodies. 11s are still very comfortable to play but are a lot more direct and to the point, if that makes sense.
I had a custom bridge fit to my guitar hat is slightly lower than the original, with the thought of using lighter strings on the higher bridge and the 11s with the lower, but with no real noticable difference in sound in the end. I say play what sounds good and feels comfortable to you.
I use 11´s argentines on a short scale (650 mm). 10´s are thin sounding on 650mm. On a long scale I always preferred the 11´s silk and steel, as they are easier on the hand but it depends heavily on the sound properties of the guitar.
I switched to 10’s a couple of years ago. I wanted to relieve the stress on my hands/fingers. Perhaps I’m not that discerning but I didn’t notice much difference (if any) in tone. The 10’s allow a low 2.8 action, and any help the string change serves to reduce that hand stress is greatly appreciated.
Good point. As I’m getting a little older my hands aren’t what they used to be. Had a small incident with my LH middle finger last week (from playing). Luckily I’ve recovered pretty quickly. I’m not sure if I sprained it or arthritis is showing it’s ugly head. It may have happened from working towards a more authentic gypsy style vibrato although I’m not entirely sure.
Neck relief (variable with truss rod adjustment), action (6th string to 1st string), and string choice (and of course scale length) all come together to affect how much force it takes to fret the strings. (There's also height of the zero fret.)
If you happen upon a great setup for your own needs, you should measure both the neck relief and the action. Then you can replicate it on another guitar. Or, if the weather changes seasonally, you can tweak it back.
Comments
Where do you find those? I’ve never seen them.
Edgar Degas: "Only when he no longer knows what he is doing does the painter do good things.... To draw, you must close your eyes and sing."
Georges Braque: "In art there is only one thing that counts: the bit that can’t be explained."
Here's just one place:
https://www.stringsbymail.com/ghs-boomers-plain-steel-0105-single-string-5884.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw1bqZBhDXARIsANTjCPIGCqE9Z30Kn2_Dq3MSXB6xXsbW7Uvh7qsUjm2knM2aFh7NwnNtOQIaAkHlEALw_wcB
I've alternated between argentines and find that the 10s bring out a sweeter sound from my guitar, with a lot more subtleties, particularly when playing melodies. 11s are still very comfortable to play but are a lot more direct and to the point, if that makes sense.
I had a custom bridge fit to my guitar hat is slightly lower than the original, with the thought of using lighter strings on the higher bridge and the 11s with the lower, but with no real noticable difference in sound in the end. I say play what sounds good and feels comfortable to you.
I use 11´s argentines on a short scale (650 mm). 10´s are thin sounding on 650mm. On a long scale I always preferred the 11´s silk and steel, as they are easier on the hand but it depends heavily on the sound properties of the guitar.
I've still got to try some silk and steel, a friend of mine swears by them and his rhythm always sounds great.
I switched to 10’s a couple of years ago. I wanted to relieve the stress on my hands/fingers. Perhaps I’m not that discerning but I didn’t notice much difference (if any) in tone. The 10’s allow a low 2.8 action, and any help the string change serves to reduce that hand stress is greatly appreciated.
Good point. As I’m getting a little older my hands aren’t what they used to be. Had a small incident with my LH middle finger last week (from playing). Luckily I’ve recovered pretty quickly. I’m not sure if I sprained it or arthritis is showing it’s ugly head. It may have happened from working towards a more authentic gypsy style vibrato although I’m not entirely sure.
Neck relief (variable with truss rod adjustment), action (6th string to 1st string), and string choice (and of course scale length) all come together to affect how much force it takes to fret the strings. (There's also height of the zero fret.)
If you happen upon a great setup for your own needs, you should measure both the neck relief and the action. Then you can replicate it on another guitar. Or, if the weather changes seasonally, you can tweak it back.