Do you notice any bleed thru of the epoxy thru the thin veneers of porous woods?
thanks
Yes, but I get that no matter what kind of glue I use. It has not been a problem in finishing, the normal sanding before finishing seems to deal with it regardless of what kind of glue it is. Other than what is in the pores, the glue is only surface deep.
Hi Craig,
Regarding the French translation on Benoit de Bretagne's site, I think you've got the gist of it spot on. They've used epoxy to laminate the layers and also recommend the WEST system specifically at one point. The Titebond seems to be for joining the veneer halves, as you thought.
All the best,
Pete
I have used West system and liquid UF resin with a powder hardener and I would now always recommend the latter. You can also mix in a mineral powder (often referred to as an extender although it has no affect on the cure time) which reduces almost to zero the amount of bleed through. Depending on the hardener chosen the cure time is between 6 and 16 hours. Any PVA will start to cure much to fast for my liking and can prevent the layers of veneer properly adopting the mould shape by locking them too soon. Remember that the adhesive has to act as a lubricant before it becomes a bonding agent. I do use Titebond to stick the leaves of veneer together before laminating.
Comments
Do you notice any bleed thru of the epoxy thru the thin veneers of porous woods?
thanks
Yes, but I get that no matter what kind of glue I use. It has not been a problem in finishing, the normal sanding before finishing seems to deal with it regardless of what kind of glue it is. Other than what is in the pores, the glue is only surface deep.
Regarding the French translation on Benoit de Bretagne's site, I think you've got the gist of it spot on. They've used epoxy to laminate the layers and also recommend the WEST system specifically at one point. The Titebond seems to be for joining the veneer halves, as you thought.
All the best,
Pete