2010 Selmer Petite Bouche Guitar #943 (Replica Prototype)

marciero

Perhaps I missed this, but what materials, information, or processes did this luthier have that allowed him to make a "more exact" replica? Haven't the original instruments and design plans been photographed, x-rayed, carbon-dated, and otherwise studied ad nauseum by some very talented builders? Perhaps this builder was able to use the original jigs, steam-bending iron, etc. But those have likely been CAT -scanned and MRI-ed too.

The other thing is that variation among individual instruments, both with originals and with copies, is going to play a role. That is to say that not only will replicas necessarily vary, but the target instruments varied too.


For the record, put me in the "don't see the point" category as far as antiquing. I do think it looks cool, and it would not prevent me from purchasing one, but given the choice I would opt not to have it. It's artificial. When you think about it, it's essentially a misrepresentation, designed to fool the viewer.

Mike

GregLewis

Bob Holo wrote:

Ah... OK, there's the rub. On a GJ guitar, that's not a nut - it's a string guide.

The difference is that the string path terminates at the zero fret just in front of that... all that 'nut-looking' thing does is make sure the string spacing is correct at the zero fret. The reason for the half-diameter rule of thumb is just generally to not bind the string at the terminus because when the bridge or nut (if the guitar has a nut as many do) binds the string it can dampen it significantly, can lead to truly strange ancillary sounds, and can even lead to string breakage. However, a lot of builders cut their nut and bridge slots fairly deep... but if you look carefully the slots are fairly wide with a tapered bottom so the string still rests on the bridge/nut and is not 'grabbed' by it.

As for the string guide... its design is much less critical than a nut because it's really not in the actively vibrating part of the string path. So, the only real concerns with it are to make sure that the string path you cut in it drops low enough so that the string has a sufficient break-angle (downforce) to make the string contact the zero fret solidly... and also to make sure that the string doesn't bind in the channels of the string guide which could make tuning a pain in the backside...and of course to get the spacing right. However, the string guide doesn't have to be as high as Selmer spec... and in fact I find it a little uncomfortable for some (admittedly rare) chords like 1st position Fmin7 and such... but that's how the originals were - up there like that - and his goal was to build the guitar to spec.

OF COURSE (slap on forehead)!

Since I don't want to think of myself as an idiot, I'll just consider you a genius.

Thanks for the help!

Greg

tacosandbeer

so who ended up buying this barault?

frater

This time is not my fault!!!

tacosandbeer

i was simply asking who bought it. it happens to be a barault. so what. if the person who bought it doesn't want to chime in, oh well. no harm in asking.